Painted, annodized, and oily aluminum scrap melts just like bare aluminum, but with two differences – the surface impurities burn off as toxic smoke and/or ends up as dross. Thought you’d like to know. When I started melting aluminum,this is one of those questions I worried about.
Making my own foundry furnace at home for melting aluminum. I came up with this design based on what i’ve seen others doing on You-tube, both DIY and pro guys (especially Tubalcain). I’m a firm believer that you get out what you put in. This project took about 6 weeks of part time work to do. Nothing was outsourced for fabrication. Everything was designed on the computer first. The acrylic brick moulds were made in one of the shops I regularly deal with that has a CNC. This furnace was designed around the need for single person operation and portability. I also had large reservations about casting the refractory cement (which is very expensive) in one piece. This would have also made the finished furnace body unmovable by one person. Casting bricks also allowed easer/effective/controlled construction and assembly. This also makes it very easy to dismantle and clean the unit. This has also been designed for possible production, so anyone with a marketing saavy that finds this interesting should contact me.
Just a quick video of the opening of a petrobond sand mold. *Always remember to let the metal part cool enough to handle. I always get a little anxious to pop it out of the sand to see the results before it’s fully cooled down but that’s just me…
Melting down more scrap aluminum, pouring ingots, all done in flip flops on the back patio. This is not a safety video. Let’s just call it “What not to wear in the foundry.” That’s right folks, you have to wear safety gear, even if you see a guy on youtube pouring metal while wearing shorts. Also shows off my new ingot mold, made by welding together some 3/16″ x 2″ flat bar and 3/16″ angle.